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Liu Chao SS20 Paris

Liu Chao’s ‘Working Girl’ SS20 Collection

In September 2019, the Spring/Summer collections for 2020 at Paris Fashion Week showcased incredible art in the form of fashion, from a wide range of famous couture houses, like Vivienne Westwood, Balmain, Yves Saint Laurent or Dior to newer designers, like Leandro Cano or Liu Chao.

Here & There attended Liu Chao’s show on the final day of Fashion Week. Chao is a Chinese designer who calls the French capital his home. From the start of his career in fashion, Chao has been making waves, while cementing his presence in the fashion world. After graduating from design school, Studio Berçot, he worked for iconic French fashion houses Hermès and Céline. In 2016, he created his eponymous brand, Liu Chao Paris. Hailed as a mix of art-meets-street-culture, Chao’s clothes are for the hip urbanite who wants to flex their fashion muscles and be noticed.

Detail of dress on Liu Chao's SS20 Collection
Liu Chao shoes

For this new Spring/Summer 2020 collection, Liu Chao’s show was held at the Palais de Tokyo with buyers, journalists, fashionistas and influencers all in anticipation for his latest collection. On the runway, the models began to walk in step to the beat of techno music, showcasing Chao’s fresh looks. Red, black, and white, with touches of a summer yellow were the colour palette of choice for Chao’s pieces. Flouncy dresses and tops bounced in tune with the models’ steps, as they walked in their spiked stiletto heels of various colours. The models’ hair was kept simple: each of them sported a slicked down, damp hairstyle – a style seen throughout various runway shows this season; the audience probably had a feeling of déjà-vu. Liu Chao seemed to have re-created some classic looks from the 1980s movie “Working Girl”, with pantsuits, long jackets, skirts and cocktail dresses. The statement pieces included in the show were Chao’s coats and cloaks – so long they brushed the floor creating an otherworldly magical fairytale feel to them.

Liu Chao is clearly a designer to keep an eye on as he continues to build an international career among the biggest names in fashion. His show-closing bow was one of respect and of a certain earnestness, not often found in fashion designers.  His peculiar artistic eye makes him one of the most talented designers today. With this new collection titled “Son Bonheur”, Chao wanted to express his gratitude to his mother. The looks explore “history, memory and archives to revive its 80s and 90s looks, with glamorous constructions, significant of this relationship between mother and son.” Ultimately, Chao wanted to pay tribute to his mother, who he describes as “bright and strong”, a description that fits perfectly every look highlighted during the show.

Words by Alexa Bouhelier-Ruelle

Photos provided by Liu Chao

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